A Bright Idea, But Done Alva Wrong

Name: The Edison
Coordinates: 108 W. 2nd St., 90012
Neighborhood: Down-town, circa 1909
Happiest Hours: Mon.-Fri., 5-7pm, with varied "specials" throughout the week

Those who know me know that I'm a nut for all things turn-of-the-century. Bicycles with big front wheels, gaslamps, labor disputes -- this is an era in which I wish I could have lived. So, from that particular point of view, now is a great time to be alive in Los Angeles.

You might say that we're going through a mini-revival in fin de siecle culture at the moment. From the renewed interest in downtown LA to the current "classic cocktail" motif that's all over town (see below), the early 20th Century is huge. Like John Fante huge. And there's no bigger (in size or reputation) player on that field than downtown LA's The Edison.

Now, my main man Cedd Moses may dispute this assertion. I'd be disappointed, in fact, if he didn't. After all, Moses holds the current crown for "Authenticity" among downtown tavern-and-saloon types. He owns places like the Golden Gopher (open since 1905), Cole's (1908) and The Varnish (2009, but acts like it's 1899), and he runs these places with an eye towards detail that is practically unmatched. I say "practically" because (and I'm not 100% sure about this) he doesn't appear to own a bar with turn-of-the-century electricity-generating equipment scattered about. Of course, I'm not very observant.

But while The Edison may have a lock on the most spectacular downtown venue -- and it is spectacular, as it looks like it's straight out of some steampunk enthusiast's wet dream -- it sort of drops the ball when it comes to the Happy Hour. Which, after all, is also a turn-of-the-century invention, given that working for 12 hours in a shirtwaist factory or coal mine generally only allowed an hour of happiness per day.

The Vitals: Like I said, The Edison is spectacular. It looks simply amazing, it's got all sorts of cool, old machinery all around, it's forty feet underground, and it's filled with all these hidden nooks and crannies in case you and your betrothed want to engage in a little premarital thigh-touching. The bartenders know their shit, are friendly, and make a fine 1902-themed libation. But the place is expensive, and their famous "theme nights" leave a little to be desired. After all, fine print is a little tough to read by flickering candlelight, or even by the first light bulb. The rules for "Soup Kitchen Friday" are laughably Byzantine -- you get one (1) $0.35 drink and an eighth of a grilled cheese, accompanied by a thimbleful of tomato soup. The rest of the drinks are a curious 40% off for the remainder of Happy Hour (5-7). I suppose I'm nitpicking here, since it's practically free, but these caveats would be nice to know before you gussy up (dress code, after all) and fight traffic to make it downtown for Happy Hour. After all, since it's 2009 as opposed to 1909, there are many more auto-carriages on the roads, and a lot fewer street-cars to get get us from the West-side to Bunker Hill, post-haste.

In Which We Leave Cole's and Turn Left

I've always had mixed feelings about libraries.

On the one hand, I love books, and libraries have plenty of those. On the other hand, however, I dislike people coughing, people asking questions, people lingering for hours on computers, and people...well, you get the point.

These mixed feelings pretty much sum up how I felt about my trip to Library Bar.

Aptly enough, this Library has books too, although I didn't see too many people thumbing through a well-worn copy of Magic Mountain. I did, however, feel crowded and vaguely dissatisfied with the experience.

Library Bar had many of the trappings of a quality Happy Hour, but there was something just a tad awry. It was kind of like when you go to Canada -- you recognize all the elements you're seeing, they're just put together differently enough to make you miss the good ol' USofA. Well, that's what happens when I go to Canada, anyway.

The vitals: Library Bar has some decent drink specials ($4 Stellas, a few $5 cocktails like Cosmos and Martinis and Washington Apples [?]) and decent decor, although it was a bit crowded and suit-y for my tastes. Those suits seem to be having fun, but I'm sure they have fun when crushing independent businesses and downsizing, too. I also didn't see any particular food specials; at least, any extant food deals weren't made as apparent as the drink specials. Plus, my Washington Apple (which I tried simply as an experiment. Shut up.) was NOT made with Crown Royal, which I understand is de rigeur. On the upside, the Happy Hour DOES go until 8pm, which makes it worth the trip in my book. Anyplace that extends the Happiest of Hours is OK-ish by me.

Would I go back? Sure. Would I RUN back, knocking aside invalids and war veterans to get there before the deals ended? Ehhhh....maybe.

When You're Alone and Life Is Making You Lonely, You Can Always Go...

Living in Los Angeles, we sometimes lose touch with our past. New construction, new music, new noses -- these things pervade our world, especially out here on the Westside, where the oldest thing I've seen in a while is that Toyota Previa that makes a lot of noise outside my window every day.

That's why it's good, every now and then, to see something that's topped the century mark, stood the test of time, fought the good fight, and so forth.

Ladies and gentlemen, for both your Happy Hour and historical pleasures, I give you Cole's.

I'd been wanting to do a Downtown LA Happy Hour study and had a different course plotted, but when I saw Cole's, I called a serious audible. And I'm glad I did.

Now, I knew Cole's -- open since 1908, rumored to have a liquor license so old you can still get takeout. And I knew that nightlife maven Cedd Moses had taken over the place, so I didn't quite know what to expect.

What I got was an experience that could have only been made more authentic by the Wright Brothers flying past.

Great atmosphere, great sandwich, great drinks. Great.

The vitals: Cole's is more about the environment and experience than the Happy Hour deals. This is OK in my book, since it's the only place I've been to in this financial downturn that survived the last big one. In short, the deals aren't that great, but it's totally worth it. Two dollars off well drinks, one dollar off signature cocktails (which are prepared with the same aplomb as they were when William Howard Taft drank here, probably), and $4 half sandwiches. Again, not deals that the coupon-clipper in all of us is going ape over, but deals nonetheless; and, for this history nerd, more than enough to get me to come back.

Coming soon: more Downtown Happy Hour reviews.